A sofa can look spotless in listing photos and still have a broken frame, a stubborn smell, or dimensions that make delivery impossible. Before arranging a pickup, ask for measurements, a description of any damage, and photos of the areas you cannot see. Those requests may save you a wasted trip.
Work through the piece’s history, its condition, and the practicalities of getting it home. A wooden table needs a different inspection from an upholstered chair, but neither can be judged by its asking price alone.
Before you visit: what does the listing leave out?
What are the exact dimensions?
Ask for width, depth, and height, plus any measurements that change when the item is in use: a dining table with its leaves extended, a recliner fully open, or a cabinet with its doors swung out. For a desk, check knee clearance. For a bed, confirm the mattress size it takes rather than relying on a label such as “double,” which can vary by region and manufacturer.
Measure both the intended space and the route into it. Door openings, stair turns, elevators, low ceilings, and narrow landings may matter more than the furniture’s footprint in the room. If the legs come off, ask how they attach and whether the hardware is included. Don’t assume a large cabinet can be dismantled just because it looks modular.
Can the seller show the back, underside, and damage up close?
Front-facing photos show the style, not necessarily the wear. Request clear, current images of drawer interiors, the underside of seats and tables, cabinet backs, corners, joints, and any stains or repairs. A photo of damage beside a ruler or coin gives you a sense of scale. If color or surface marks matter, ask for a daylight photo; warm indoor lighting can hide discoloration.
Check what comes with the piece. A bookshelf may be missing a shelf or its support pegs; a table may have a leaf but lack its storage bag or matching fasteners. If it is a set, confirm how many pieces are included in the stated price.
How old is it, and what has been repaired?
A seller may not know the age or maker, and uncertainty alone is no reason to walk away. Repair history often tells you more. Ask whether the piece has been reglued, reupholstered, refinished, or fitted with replacement parts. Does the repair still hold? Can the seller send a close photo? Fresh paint may simply be the intended finish, but it can also make joints and water damage harder to assess.
For household furniture, a story about its origins is no substitute for checking its condition. Before paying extra for a claimed designer piece or “solid wood,” look at the construction, labels, and materials.
At the viewing: is it sound beneath the finish?
Does the frame move when it should not?
Test furniture gently on a level surface. A chair should not rock because its joints are loose, and a table should not sway under light pressure at the edge. Sit in every seat. Listen for creaks, feel for sagging, and check whether the frame twists. An uneven floor can cause a wobble, so move the piece or try a thin shim before blaming the joints.
On wooden furniture, inspect where rails meet legs and supports meet the seat or tabletop. Watch for gaps, split wood, missing braces, and screws pulling out of their holes. Tightening a screw in sound wood may be simple; rebuilding a cracked load-bearing joint is another matter. Moisture-swollen particleboard rarely regains its original strength or shape.
Do the moving parts work all the way through?
Open every drawer fully, close it, and check for sticking, missing runners, loose bottoms, or a sour smell inside. Open cabinet doors and inspect hinge screws and alignment. Extend and retract every leaf of a folding table, and examine the locks. Test recliners and adjustable chairs through their full range without forcing a resistant mechanism.
Carefully run a hand along accessible edges for splinters or sharp hardware. Look behind handles and under knobs for stripped fixings. A missing handle is usually easier to replace than a damaged drawer front, though an unusual fitting may be hard to match.
Are marks cosmetic, or do they point to damage?
Small scratches and worn finish are visible and often manageable. Dark stains, raised veneer, bubbling laminate, softness around the base, or a musty smell can point to moisture exposure. Check underneath and near the floor, where damage may be absent from the photos. On metal furniture, look for rust that has thinned a load-bearing part rather than merely marked the surface.
Ask about marks hidden by a throw, cushion, or newly placed object, and move removable items only with the seller’s permission. A strong fragrance is also worth asking about: is it covering smoke, dampness, or another persistent odor? Cleaning helps with some smells, but upholstery and unfinished wood can hold on to them.
For upholstered furniture: what cannot be seen easily?
Fabric matters, but so do the padding and structure beneath it. Press cushions in several spots to see whether they spring back. Lift loose cushions and inspect the decking, seams, zippers, and corners underneath. Look for fraying, uneven wear, stains that have reached the padding, or a seat that slopes to one side.
Ask where the item has been stored and whether it has been exposed to damp, smoke, or pets. These are questions about condition, not judgments about a household. Months in an unheated garage affect fabric, foam, and wood differently from storage in a dry living room.
Use a flashlight to check seams, piping, the underside, and joints for insects or signs of activity, including dark spotting, shed skins, or debris. Bed bugs can hide in furniture other than beds, and a visual check cannot guarantee a piece is pest-free. If you find signs of infestation or cannot adequately inspect an upholstered piece you are concerned about, it is safer to leave it than to count on a casual cleaning.
A used mattress is especially hard to assess for hygiene and condition. Check local rules before considering one, and do not buy a mattress that is stained, damp, torn, or suspected of harboring pests. Take extra care with secondhand upholstery intended for a baby’s sleep space: current safety guidance and complete product identification matter more than a low price.
What is it made of, and will it suit its new use?
Ask whether a wooden-looking piece is solid wood, veneer over plywood, or a printed finish over engineered board. None is automatically a poor choice, but they wear and repair differently. Solid wood may tolerate refinishing; thin veneer can be sanded through; laminated particleboard is vulnerable when moisture enters a damaged edge. Look underneath or inside an unfinished section rather than judging by the visible surface alone.
Think about what the piece will hold. A display cabinet may be fine for light objects but unsuitable for heavy records or books without sturdy shelves and dependable supports. In a home with children, a dresser should be suitable for anchoring. Ask whether a compatible wall-anchoring system is available, and plan to install it properly rather than assuming the dresser’s weight will prevent tipping. Tall shelving needs the same attention.
With vintage furniture, ask whether the finish is original and identify its materials before sanding or stripping. Disturbing older paints and coatings can create exposure risks. If you cannot identify a suspect finish, avoid making dust and seek appropriate advice before restoring it. You can also use a painted piece without refinishing it.
Are there safety rules or missing identifiers?
Check the label, model number, and manufacturer when available, particularly for bunk beds, children’s furniture, recliners, and powered pieces. These details help you check for recalls and find compatible replacement parts. Requirements vary by location and product type, so verify the rules where you live. Calling a piece “vintage” does not mean it meets current requirements.
For lamps, powered desks, and motorized recliners, ask whether every electrical feature works and inspect cords for damage. Do not use anything with frayed wiring, a loose plug, or exposed conductors. If it needs electrical repair, allow for an assessment by a qualified person in your budget. Upholstery labels may also identify the filling, care instructions, or applicable fire-safety requirements; without them, compliance can be harder to verify.
What will it cost after the purchase price?
Ask yourself what must happen before you can use the piece. Add transport, packing materials, cleaning, replacement hardware, upholstery work, and professional repairs to the asking price. A cheap dining chair that needs a screw tightened is different from one that needs a rebuilt frame and a new seat covering.
Be honest about your skills and available time. Refinishing a large cabinet takes space, ventilation, tools, and a plan for dealing with old coatings. Professional reupholstery may cost more than a modest secondhand sofa. If the bargain depends on substantial work, get an estimate before counting on the savings.
Find out whether the seller can help carry the piece, whether it comes apart, and what vehicle you will need. Bring blankets and straps, and secure drawers and doors without putting adhesive directly on a delicate finish. Even a free item has a cost if moving it damages a wall, vehicle, or the furniture itself.
What are the terms of the sale and pickup?
- Availability: Is it still available, and is the listing for the exact piece shown?
- Price: Is the amount for one item or the entire set? Which payment methods does the seller accept?
- Inspection: Can you examine and test it before paying? Settle this before committing to pickup.
- Pickup: What floor is it on? Are there stairs or an elevator, and is there a safe place to load?
- Timing: When must it be collected, and will it stay dry and accessible until then?
- Returns: Is the sale final? Private sales often lack a store’s return policy or buyer protections.
Keep the conversation on the listing platform until you are comfortable with the arrangement. Avoid sending a deposit for an unverified item unless you understand the transaction method’s protections. You can decline if the seller refuses reasonable condition photos, pushes for immediate payment, or changes the terms at pickup.
Before you leave to collect a large dresser, compare its width, height, and depth with your narrowest doorway and vehicle opening. Bring those measurements with you; they are more dependable than an assurance that it “should fit.”
