A chair can look sturdy in a listing and wobble the moment someone sits down. Before arranging a visit, ask for a photo of its underside and whether any joints move. Those two questions may save you a trip—or tell you that you’re looking at a repair project.
Used furniture can need anything from a quick clean to major work hidden by a well-chosen camera angle. You don’t need a flawless bargain. You need enough information about condition, size, safety, and collection costs to decide what you’re taking on.
Questions to ask before you travel
What are the exact dimensions?
Ask for width, depth, and height at the widest and tallest points, rather than relying on the dimensions printed on a label. A sofa’s arms may extend beyond its seat; a desk’s legs may be spaced farther apart than you expect. If access is tight, find out whether legs, shelves, doors, or other parts come off—and whether the fasteners are included.
Measure both the intended space and the route into it: door openings, corridors, stair turns, and lift interiors. Leave room for hands and for the angle needed to turn a bulky piece. Furniture that fits the room on paper can still be impossible to carry through the entrance. Check, too, that drawers and doors will open once it’s in place.
How long have you owned it, and why are you selling it?
These are ordinary questions, not a request for a detailed history. The answers may tell you whether the piece has seen years of daily use, been stored, undergone a recent repair, or passed through another owner’s hands. A vague reply doesn’t necessarily mean trouble, but it leaves you with less to go on. Ask about defects separately; the reason for selling may not cover them.
What damage is not visible in the photos?
Request clear photos of the back, underside, corners, drawer interiors, joints, and any known damage. Ask about stains, odors, swelling, loose parts, missing hardware, and areas that have been glued, painted, or patched. For upholstery, ask about tears and sagging as well as marks on the fabric. A seller who shows you a worn corner is giving you more to work with than one who simply writes “good condition.”
Photos can also help you tell a finish problem from damage underneath. A scratch on a solid wood top may be manageable; a swollen particleboard edge generally won’t return to its original shape. If you can’t tell which it is, ask for a close-up.
Questions to answer during the inspection
Is it structurally sound?
Inspect the piece on a level surface if you can. Gently press opposite corners of a table or chair and feel for rocking or twisting. With the seller’s permission, sit in a chair; photos can’t show how its joints behave under weight. Open every drawer and door on a dresser or cabinet, checking that each moves freely and stays aligned. Don’t force anything that sticks.
Look closely at joints, legs, rails, and supports. A loose screw may be a small fix if the material around it is sound. A cracked load-bearing rail, a leg pulling away from its frame, or wood crumbling around a fastener is a bigger job. If you can’t tell why the piece moves, assess it as a repair project, not ready-to-use furniture.
Is the surface damage only cosmetic?
Run a hand lightly over edges and tops to find rough spots, raised veneer, or soft areas. Look for water rings, then check behind and underneath for swollen panels or staining that suggests prolonged moisture exposure. A small patch of lifting veneer may be repairable; widespread peeling, warped panels, or a musty smell can make the work much more involved.
If you plan to refinish the piece, ask what cleaning products, paint, or finish have been used on it. Fresh paint can conceal repairs, though paint alone isn’t evidence of a problem. Check whether the top feels tacky or leaves residue on a cloth. With older painted furniture, don’t sand or scrape until you’ve considered the possible lead-paint risk and have an appropriate testing and handling method.
Are there signs of pests or persistent odors?
Check upholstery seams, folds, and the underside for insects, dark spots, shed skins, or other suspicious traces. Bed bugs are hard to detect, and a quick look cannot prove an item is clear. If you see signs of infestation, leave it. On wood furniture, small holes with fresh powdery dust may indicate active wood-boring insects; old holes alone don’t establish current activity.
Smell the piece up close, especially inside drawers and beneath cushions. Smoke, mildew, and pet odors can remain after ordinary cleaning. If it has been stored somewhere damp or has visible mold, don’t assume airing it out will fix the problem—particularly if moisture has reached padding or composite board.
Questions that depend on the type of furniture
For a sofa or upholstered chair: what is beneath the fabric?
Ask whether the cushions come off, and inspect both sides. Sit in several spots to feel for uneven support, sagging, or a shifting frame. Lift the seat cushions to examine the platform beneath; if you can reach the underside, look for broken supports or repairs. Fabric may be cleanable, but new padding or frame repairs can cost more than the sofa.
Ask about smoke and pets if either matters to your household. The seller’s answer helps, but inspect the piece yourself rather than relying on a claim that it’s “clean.” For a sleeper sofa, unfold and refold the mechanism with permission, and inspect the mattress as carefully as the seats.
For a dresser or bookcase: can it be used safely?
Pull drawers out one at a time and look for missing stops, damaged runners, or a tendency to tip forward. Don’t test stability by climbing on the piece or leaning your weight on an open drawer. Tall storage furniture can tip, especially when drawers are loaded or children can reach them. Ask whether the maker’s anti-tip hardware is included, and plan to secure the piece to the wall with hardware suited to both the furniture and the wall. An anchor cannot make up for a damaged frame or an unsound wall fixing.
On a bookcase, check for bowed shelves and make sure adjustable shelf pins are present and fit firmly. On a cabinet, see that the doors close without binding and the back panel is attached. A missing shelf pin may be easy to replace if you know its size; a cabinet that has shifted out of square can take more work.
For a table or bed: are all the parts present?
A dining table with leaves needs the matching supports, clips, or locks. Try the leaves in place rather than assuming they fit because they came with the table. For a bed frame, ask for a photo of all the parts laid out: rails, slats, center support, brackets, and fasteners. Check the frame against your mattress size and support requirements. Standard hardware may be replaceable, but proprietary connectors can be hard to match.
Questions about the true cost
What would it take to make this usable?
Separate jobs you can do yourself from those that need a specialist. Cleaning a drawer or changing standard knobs is one thing; reupholstering a sofa, repairing a broken frame, or dealing with a suspected infestation is another. Before making an offer, estimate supplies, professional work, transport, and disposal of any furniture the new piece will replace. Consider how long the project will take up space at home, too, especially if you can’t use it straight away.
Compare that total with other available pieces that meet the same need, not just the price of new furniture. A low asking price loses its appeal if you need a rented vehicle, hours of work, and a repair with an uncertain outcome.
How will collection work?
Ask what floor the item is on, whether there’s a lift, how far it must be carried, and whether anyone can help load it. Confirm the pickup address and access details before arranging a vehicle. If the piece comes apart, get a photo before disassembly to help with reassembly. Bring protective blankets, straps, and enough help for heavy furniture; don’t count on the seller assisting unless you’ve agreed on it.
Check the vehicle opening as well as its cargo space. A wide tabletop might fit inside but fail to pass through the rear door. Secure furniture for transport, and remove or restrain drawers and doors so they can’t slide open. If you need professional movers, get a realistic quote before committing.
Questions about the listing and the agreement
Can you inspect it before paying?
For a local sale, settle the inspection and payment arrangement before you travel. Confirm whether the price is fixed, which pictured accessories are included, and when the item must be collected. If a deposit is needed to reserve it, get the terms in writing and think carefully before sending money without enough confidence in the seller and the piece. Keep the listing and your messages until the transaction is finished.
Private used-furniture sales may leave you with limited recourse if a fault appears later. Terms and consumer protections vary by location and by whether you buy from an individual or a business. If a seller won’t let you examine a piece that needs an in-person assessment, factor that uncertainty into your decision.
Does this particular piece suit the space?
Condition isn’t the whole question. Check seat or table height, storage capacity, and room to move around the piece day to day. A sturdy armchair can still be uncomfortable; a deep desk might leave too little space to walk behind it. Bring your measurements—and a tape measure if it helps—to the viewing. If the furniture will stand near a radiator or in direct sunlight, consider how heat or light might affect its material and finish over time.
Before collecting a dresser, write down three measurements: its widest point, the narrowest doorway on the route, and the vehicle opening. If the doorway is narrower, check whether the dresser can pass through at an angle and whether there’s enough space to turn it. If you can’t confirm that, don’t let the asking price make the decision for you.
